Ten kilometres out of Dubrovnik, the main Montenegro-bound road descends into Župa Dubrovačka, a string of erstwhile fishing villages which have now merged to form a 6km line of apartment blocks, weekend villas, angular hotels and waterside cafés, the whole verdant strip backed by impressively stark mountains. The area was occupied by Serb and Montenegrin troops in the winter of 1991–92 and most of the hotels looted, although all but a small proportion have now been spruced up and put back in service. The opening of a brand-new Sheraton hotel in the westernmost Župa settlement of Srebreno, right next door to a freshly constructed shopping mall, looks set to boost the fortunes of what is very much an up-and-coming corner of the Dubrovnik coast.

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