At the centre of town sits the attractive, palm-lined Parque Central, peopled by an engaging mix of tourists, stalls, itinerants and clumping horses. A few small kiosks sell snacks, and an ice-cream seller wanders around ringing his handbell in search of trade. On the east side of the Parque is the large, graceful cathedral, built in 1712 and damaged in the 1850s during William Walker’s violent reign.

As well as the cathedral, many of the city’s most captivating historic houses line the square. The palatial red house with white trim on the corner of Calle La Calzada, across from the cathedral, is the Bishop’s Residence, with a columned upstairs veranda typical of the former homes of wealthy Granadino burghers.

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