The shoreline of Lago de Nicaragua is about 1km east of the Parque Central. As you head down the wide boulevard of Calle La Calzada, past churches and baseball diamonds, the stretch gets more and more dilapidated until you arrive at the shore, which has a huge vista of the lake, but feels eerliy empty unless you happen to arrive as the boat from San Carlos or Ometepe is docking. To the south a small park lines the lake, a few hundred metres beyond which is the entrance to the Centro Turístico (C$10 entry occasionally imposed), a group of lakeside bars and cheap restaurants that’s ironically far more popular with locals than visitors. It’s deserted on weekdays but popular at weekends, especially in the evenings, when the nightlife gets going. If heading here after dark, get a taxi back into town.

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