SAVUSAVU, Vanua Levu’s main tourist centre, is a small one-street town squeezed between rolling hills and a silvery ocean. Sitting alongside a bay that was once a giant volcano, Savusavu is Fiji’s most popular anchorage for visiting yachts. With several excellent restaurants and bars, splendid walks in the Savusavu Hills and fabulous nearby snorkelling at Lesiaceva Point, the town makes for a pleasant short stay.

From Savusavu, the sedate Hibiscus Highway passes old coconut plantations, hugging the south coast of Vanua Levu, while to the north are two picturesque waterfalls hidden amongst tropical rainforests, one at the village of Vuadomo, the other at the Waisali Nature Reserve.

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