Nan is a pleasant spot to spend a day or two, but if you fancy doing something a bit more energetic, it’s worth heading out to the countryside. With or without your own vehicle, your best option is to head for the reliable Fhu Travel at 453/4 Thanon Sumondhevaraj. As well as dispensing advice about the region, Fhu and Ung, his wife, organize popular and enjoyable guided tours and trekking trips. One-day tours to Wat Nong Bua, including a visit to the local weavers, cost B3200 for two people or B900 per person for five people, including lunch. Two- to three-day treks head west, through tough terrain of thick jungle and high mountains, visiting Mrabri, Htin, Hmong and Mien villages. As well as offering cycling tours around town, one- to three-day whitewater-rafting excursions on the Wa River near Mae Charim to the east of town, and kayaking, whether overnight or just paddling for half a day on the Nan River near town, Fhu can also arrange trips to Luang Prabang in Laos, via the border crossing at Huai Kon in the extreme north of Nan province, which is open to foreigners.

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