During the Emergency in the 1950s, the mountainous jungle at Fraser’s Hill provided perfect cover for some of the communist guerrillas’ secret camps, from where they launched strikes on British-owned plantations and neighbouring towns.

If you approach Fraser’s Hill via Kuala Kubu Bharu, due north of KL, roughly halfway up you’ll see a sign, “Emergency Historical Site”, marking the spot where Sir Henry Gurney, the British High Commissioner for Malaya at the height of the communist insurgency in 1951, was ambushed and killed. The guerrillas hadn’t known how important their quarry was: their aim had been only to steal guns, ammunition and food, but when Gurney strode towards them demanding that they put down their weapons, they opened fire.

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