Sumbawa Besar, usually referred to simply as Sumbawa, is the largest town on the island, although it sprawls without a real centre. The main streets run on a one-way loop, forming a convenient racetrack for ojek drivers in the evenings, although the side streets are quiet and leafy. The area around the Sultan’s Palace, to the south of town, is a particularly pleasant place to wander, where luxurious modern mansions sit side by side with old wooden huts on tiny, colourful alleys. You’re welcome to walk through the palace itself, an elaborate stilted wooden mansion at Jl Dalam Loka 1; ask the guard to unlock it for you.

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