Sape, where you’ll find the port of Bugis, is a quiet, dusty town where livestock wander the streets and local fisherman ply the harbour at dusk. There isn’t much to see, but it can be a pleasant place to stay the night. Nearby Gili Banta makes a good day-trip, with nice beaches and a burgeoning turtle population; if you get a group together, you can charter a boat there from the harbour. Otherwise, there’s the dark sand Papa Beach, 10km out of town, which is a peaceful spot for a picnic; an ojek will take you there. Most of the town’s facilities, including the post office and a BNI Bank with an ATM, are on the main road down to the port.

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