Just west of the Jahangir Mahal and built during the early eighteenth century, long after Orchha’s demise, the Sheesh Mahal (“Palace of Mirrors”) was originally intended to be an exclusive country retreat for the local raja, Udait Singh. Following Independence, the property was inherited by the state government, who converted it into a hotel. The rather squat palace stands between the Raj Mahal and the Jahangir Mahal, at the far end of an open-sided courtyard. Covered in a coat of whitewash and stripped of most of its Persian rugs and antiques, the building retains only traces of its former splendour, though there are stunning views from its upper terraces and turrets. If they’re not occupied, check out the palatial suites (rooms 1 and 2), which contain original bathroom fittings.

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