With its huge pointed shikharas soaring high above the village just south of the market, Chatturbuj Mandir is the temple originally built to house Rani Ganesha’s icon. In cruciform shape, representing the four-armed Vishnu, with seven storeys and spacious courtyards ringed by arched balconies, it epitomizes the regal Bundelkhand style, inspired by the Mughals, with Rajput, Persian and European touches. It’s unusual for a Hindu temple, with few carvings and a wealth of space – perhaps to accommodate followers of the bhakti cult (a form of worship involving large congregations of people rather than a small elite of priests). You can climb up the narrow staircases between storeys to the temple’s roof, pierced by an ornate shikhara whose niches shelter nesting vultures.

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