If the bright lights of Palolem start to lose their allure, wander around the headland to the south, where the Hindu fishing hamlet of Colom offers a more sedate scene. The shacks and bar strip resurfaces in earnest once around the next promontory at Patnem, but even in peak season the beach here rarely gets packed. Finally, to the south of Patnem, Rajbag is a worthwhile destination for a fitness walk, but little more, thanks to the massive luxury resort behind it.

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