BAGA, 10km west of Mapusa, is basically an extension of Calangute. The only difference between this far northern end of the beach and its more congested centre around Calangute is that the scenery here is marginally more varied and picturesque. Overlooked by a rocky headland draped in vegetation, a small tidal river flows into the sea at the top of the village, past a spur of soft white sand where ranks of brightly coloured fishing boats are moored.

Since the package boom, Baga has developed more rapidly than anywhere else in the state and today looks less like the Goan fishing village it was in the early 1990s and more like a small-scale resort on the Spanish costas, with a predominantly young, male, Indian clientele. But if you can steer clear of the lager louts, Baga boasts distinct advantages over its neighbours: a crop of excellent restaurants and a nightlife that’s consistently more full-on than anywhere else in the state, if not all India.

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