Havelock is the largest island in Ritchie’s Archipelago, and the most intensively cultivated, settled – like many in the region – by Bengali refugees after Partition. Thanks to its regular ferry connections with the capital, it is also visited in far greater numbers than anywhere else in the Andamans. In peak season, several thousand tourists can be holed up here at one time, including an increasing number of well-heeled Indians, which has led to an explosion in accommodation and tourist shops, many (as in the rest of the country) owned by Kashmiris.

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