Edged on four sides by busy traffic-clogged streets, the much-photographed Psar Thmei, or Central Market, was designed by the French in 1937 and hailed at the time as Asia’s largest. The original Art Deco design, highlighted by the enormous central dome and unusual cruciform shape, has made it a central, if unlikely, landmark. Reopened in 2011 after extensive renovations, its atmospheric central hall is laid out with stalls selling jewellery, spectacles and watches while its four enormous wings house low-grade electronics, household items, clothing and fabrics along with fresh produce, souvenirs and flowers. It is a smelly and eye-opening experience to stroll around the food stalls here, where every type of meat, fish, fruit and vegetable is on display. It’s a good place for a cheap feed, too; fringing the market to the south are food stands selling local dishes for a few thousand riel.

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