Alice Springs and around
The bright, clear desert air of ALICE SPRINGS gives the town and its people a charge that you don’t get in the languid, tropical north. Arriving here is a relief after a long drive up or down the Stuart Highway. Its sights, notably the wonderful Araluen Arts Centre and the out-of-town Desert Park, are worth leisurely exploration, and a couple of nights is the minimum you should budget for. Timing your visit for one of the town’s quirky festivals, from dry river-bed regattas to the Camel Cup, is also worth considering.
The centre of town occupies a compact area between the Stuart Highway and Leichhardt Terrace, along the almost perennially dry Todd River, bordered to the north and south by Wills Terrace and Stott Terrace respectively. Bisecting this rectangle is Todd Mall, a pedestrian thoroughfare lined with cafés and galleries. Get an overview of Alice’s setting by nipping up Anzac Hill (off Wills Terrace) for 360-degree views over the town and the MacDonnell Ranges.
Brief history
The area has been inhabited for at least forty thousand years by the Arrernte (also known as Aranda), who moved between reliable water sources along the MacDonnell Ranges. But, as elsewhere in the Territory, it was only the arrival of the Overland Telegraph Line in the 1870s that led to a permanent settlement here. It was Charles Todd, then South Australia’s Superintendent of Telegraphs, who saw the need to link South Australia with the Top End, which in turn would give a link to Asia and, ultimately, the rest of the empire. The town’s river and its tributary carry his name, while the “spring” (actually a billabong) and town are named after his wife, Alice.
With repeater stations needed every 250km from Adelaide to Darwin to boost the OTL signal, the billabong north of today’s town was chosen as the spot at which to establish the telegraph station. When a spurious ruby rush led to the discovery of gold in the Eastern MacDonnells, Stuart Town (the town’s official name in its early years) became a departure point for the long slog to the riches east. The gold rush fizzled, but the township of Stuart remained, a collection of shanty dwellings serving pastoralists, prospectors and missionaries.
In 1929 the railway line from Adelaide finally reached Stuart Town. Journeys that had once taken weeks by camel from the Oodnadatta railhead could now be undertaken in just a few days, so by 1933, when the town officially became Alice Springs, the population had mushroomed to nearly five hundred white Australians. The 1942 evacuation of Darwin saw Alice Springs become the Territory’s administrative capital and a busy military supply base.
After hostilities ceased, some of the wartime population stayed on and Alice Springs began to establish itself as a pleasant if quirky place to live, immortalized in fiction by Nevil Shute’s novel, A Town Like Alice. In the 1980s the town’s prosperity was further boosted by the reconstruction of the poorly built rail link from Adelaide and the sealing of the Stuart Highway. The town’s proximity to Uluru, which became a global tourist destination in the 1970s and 1980s, saw the creation of the many resorts and motels still present today. This trade took a knock when direct flights to the rock were established, and businesses in Alice are still suffering from this bypass effect.
Accommodation
There are decent accommodation options scattered across the city, on both sides of the Todd River. Much of it is reasonably central, but be aware that Alice isn’t the safest city for a long wander at night. Booking ahead is advisable during the winter school holidays (June & July) and events like the biennial Masters Games in October (even-numbered years).
Eating and drinking
There are plenty of good places to eat in Alice Springs. Todd Mall boasts a handful of cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating. Nightlife is fairly low-key, though Friday and Saturday nights get lively; doormen and regular police patrols keep things from getting too hairy but it’s safest to get a taxi back to your accommodation if you have more than a five-minute walk. The twice-weekly Centralian Advocate (alicenow.com.au) carries details of live music and other entertainment.
The Ghan
These days a rail adventure of international renown, The Ghan – the train service which travels year-round between Adelaide and Darwin – is remarkable for several reasons, not least the fact that it exists at all. Work first started on a rail line that would join the two cities in 1877, but poor engineering practices coupled with a flimsy understanding of seasonal rains meant decades of failed attempts. The service takes its name from the Afghan cameleers who had nailed Outback travel rather more effectively.
A workable stretch of track from Adelaide to Alice Springs was in place from the 1930s, although it wasn’t until as recently as 2004 that it finally reached Darwin. It’s a blessing that it now does. There are three types of ticket available: Red Service, Gold Service and Platinum Service. Red Service gives you a “Daynighter” seat and a view of the plains rolling by – plump for anything higher and you’re treated to a smart private cabin, indulgent food and wine, off-train tours and a general sense of rail travel as it should be. Highly recommended. See gsr.com.au or call 1800 703 357 for more information.
Arnhem Land
Pristine ARNHEM LAND is geographically the continuation of Kakadu eastwards to the Gulf of Carpentaria, but without the infrastructure and picnic areas. Never colonized and too rough to graze, the 91,000-square-kilometre wilderness was designated an Aboriginal reserve in 1931 and has remained in Aboriginal hands since that time. In 1963 the Yirrkala of northwestern Arnhem Land appealed against the proposed mining of bauxite on their land. It was the first protest of its kind and included the presentation of sacred artefacts and a petition in the form of a bark painting to the government in Canberra. Their actions brought the issue of Aboriginal land rights to the public eye, paving the way for subsequent successful land claims in the Territory.
Independent tourists are not allowed to visit Arnhem Land without a permit, and the twelve thousand Aborigines who live here prefer it that way. Little disturbed for more then forty thousand years, Arnhem Land, like Kakadu, holds thousands of rock-art sites and burial grounds, wild coastline, rivers teeming with fish, stunning stone escarpments, monsoon forests, savannah woodlands and abundant wildlife. In recent years, the mystique of this “forbidden land” has proved a profitable source of income for Arnhem Land’s more accessible communities, and tours, particularly to the areas adjacent to Kakadu, are now offered in partnership with a select few operators.
Aboriginal festivals
Attending an Aboriginal festival can make for a high point of a visit to Australia. Here are some of the best, and most memorable, in the Territory. They are almost exclusively alcohol-free.
Ngukurr (June; ngukurrarts.com) A three-day festival at a remote community on the Roper Highway, incorporating everything from footy matches and craft workshops to hip-hop competitions and family activities.
Barunga (June; barungafestival.com.au) One of the best known of the NT’s indigenous festivals, with a focus on music, sport and culture. 80km southeast of Katherine.
Dancing with Spirits (July; djilpinarts.org.au) Held by the Wugularr community in SW Arnhem Land, sharing songs, dance, stories and music in a spectacular waterside setting. 4WD recommended for access.
Walaman Cultural Festival (July; ntyan.com.au) A colourful celebration involving workshops, traditional dancing, bush games and fire sculptures. Takes place in Bulman, 400km southeast of Darwin. No charge for tickets, all welcome.
Garma (August; garma.com.au) Rightly famed and hugely popular, drawing large numbers of non-indigenous visitors to the Gove Peninsula to immerse themselves in the music, ceremonies and bushcraft of the “First Australians”.
Darwin
In spite of its modest size, torrid climate and often traumatic history, DARWIN manages to feel young, vibrant and cosmopolitan, a mood illustrated as much by the buzzing bars along Mitchell Street as by the joggers and cyclists making the most of the tropical parks and waterfront suburbs. Travellers accustomed to the all-enveloping conurbations of the east coast can initially be underwhelmed by its low-rise, laidback mood, but Darwin more than matches its billing as one of the fastest-growing cities in Australia, and its population of some 125,000 accommodates a jumble of different ethnic backgrounds. To fully appreciate Darwin you should allow a minimum of three days to absorb its heritage buildings and wildlife attractions, visit the gleaming new waterfront quarter and enjoy the steaming nightlife.
Day-trips from Darwin include the ever-popular Litchfield National Park as well as the Aboriginal-owned Tiwi Islands, a thirty-minute flight from town. Crocodylus Park, on the city’s edge, makes for a full day out when combined with the excellent Territory Wildlife Park. On paper, Kakadu is another day-trip option, but to appreciate it properly you’ll need longer, possibly on a tour.
Brief history
Setting up a colonial settlement on Australia’s remote northern shores was never going to be easy, and it took four abortive attempts in various locations over 45 years before Darwin (originally called Palmerston) was established in 1869 by the new South Australian state keen to exploit its recently acquired “northern territory”. The early colonists’ aim was to pre-empt foreign occupation and create a trading post – a “new Singapore” for the British Empire.
Things got off to a promising start with the 1872 arrival of the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL), following the route pioneered by explorer John McDouall Stuart in 1862 that finally linked Australia with the rest of the world. Gold was discovered at Pine Creek while pylons were being erected for the OTL, prompting a gold rush and construction of a southbound railway. After the gold rush ran its course, a cyclone flattened the depressed town in 1897, but by 1911, when Darwin adopted its present name (a legacy of Charles Darwin’s former ship, the Beagle, having laid anchor here in 1839), the rough-and-ready frontier outpost had grown into a small government centre, servicing the mines and properties of the Top End. Yet even by 1937, after being razed by a second cyclone, the town had a population of just 1500.
During World War II, Japanese air raids destroyed Darwin, killing hundreds, information that was suppressed at the time. The fear of invasion and an urgent need to get troops to the war zone led to the swift construction of the Stuart Highway, the first reliable land link between Darwin and the rest of Australia.
Three decades of postwar prosperity followed until Christmas Eve 1974, when Cyclone Tracy rolled in overnight and devastated the city. Despite the relatively low death toll of 66, Tracy marked the end of old Darwin, psychologically as well as architecturally, and most of the population was evacuated before the hasty rebuilding process began. Over the last couple of decades links with Asia, and an influx of Aussies seeking warmer weather and a slower pace of life, have transformed the city into a vibrant multicultural destination. In 2004 tourism and the mining industry were boosted by the completion of the Darwin rail link with Alice Springs (and Adelaide). More recently, the billion-dollar waterfront regeneration project and the discovery of vast amounts of natural gas offshore have attracted more migrants and money.
The modern city spreads north from the end of a stubby peninsula where a settlement was originally established on the lands of the Larrakia Aborigines. For the visitor most of the action lies between the Waterfront Area and East Point, 9km to the north.
Aboriginal people and tourism
More than a quarter of Northern Territory’s population are Aborigines, a far higher proportion than anywhere else in Australia, and half of the Territory is once again Aboriginal-owned land, returned following protracted land claims. As a tourist, however, meeting Aboriginal people and getting to know them can be difficult. Excepting the national parks, most Aboriginal land is out of bounds to visitors without a permit or invitation, and most communities and outstations, where the majority of Aboriginal people live, are remote even by Territory standards.
There’s a tendency for outsiders to think of “Aborigines” as a single mass of people, overlooking the fact that dozens of distinct indigenous groups have traditionally inhabited the NT region, many of them with very individual cultural beliefs and practices. But it’s true, sadly, that the most visible Aboriginal people in the main towns of Darwin and Alice Springs are those living rough on the streets, a sad sight that shows little signs of changing. Likewise, the extent of certain social problems – most apparently alcoholism – is unavoidable.
But while these issues might be real they’re far from all-defining, and for those interested in getting to the heart of the enigmatic Australian Outback and meeting indigenous Australians, the Territory provides an introduction to a land that’s sustained fascinating and complex cultures for at least forty thousand years. Some Aborigines have a new-found pride in their heritage and identity, demonstrated in superb museums, successful tourism projects, and a flowering of indigenous art, media, music and literature.
The most meaningful contact for the short-term visitor is likely to be from an indigenous tour guide, a knowledgeable non-Aboriginal guide, or – if you time things right – a visit to a cultural festival. Try to choose Aboriginal-owned tour providers, for example Northern Territory Indigenous Tours or Batji Tours. Keep in mind that most tours will only scrape the surface of a complex way of life – secrecy is one of the pillars that supports traditional society, so what you’ll probably learn is a watered-down version from people unable to give away some of the particulars of closely guarded “business”. But if you’re keen to learn about the meaning of the country for Aborigines, about languages, bushtucker, bush medicine and Dreamtime stories, these tours can be enriching.
Accommodation
Darwin has plentiful accommodation, most of it conveniently central. Rates in the town’s apartments and more expensive hotels can drop by half during the Wet from October through to April.
Buying and playing a didgeridoo
Authentic didges are created from termite-hollowed branches of stringybark, woollybark and bloodwood trees that are indigenous from the Gulf to the Kimberley. They’re most commonly associated with Arnhem Land, where they were introduced between 1500 and 2000 years ago and are properly called yidaka or molo by the Yolngu people of that region. “Didgeridoo” is an Anglicized name relating to the sound produced.
Tiny bamboo and even painted pocket didges have found their way onto the market, but a real didge is a natural tube of wood with a rough interior. Painted versions haven’t necessarily got any symbolic meaning; plain ones can look less tacky and are less expensive. Branches being what they are, every didge is different, but if you’re considering playing it rather than hanging it over the fireplace, aim for one around 1.3m in length with a 30–40mm diameter mouthpiece. The bend doesn’t affect the sound, but the length, tapering and wall thickness (ideally between 5mm and 10mm) do. Avoid cumbersome, thick-walled items that get in the way of your face and sound flat. For authentic didges visit the workshop run by Richard Williams (21firstst.com), based at Coco’s Backpackers in Katherine. Sounds of Starlight in Alice Springs also has an extensive range.
The key to making the right sound is to hum while letting your pressed lips flap, or vibrate, with the right pressure behind them – it’s easier using the side of your mouth. The tricky bit – beyond the ability of most beginners – is to master circular breathing; this entails refilling your lungs through your nose while maintaining the sound from your lips with air squeezed from your cheeks. A good way to get your head round this concept is to blow or “squirt” bubbles into a glass of water with a straw, while simultaneously inhaling through the nose. Most shops that sell didges also sell CDs and inexpensive “how to” booklets that offer hints on the mysteries of circular breathing and how to emit advanced sounds using your vocal cords.
Some Aboriginal communities forbid women to play the didge – as actress Nicole Kidman found out after she played one on German television to promote the film Australia. Besides being criticized for cultural insensitivity, Kidman was later informed that some Aboriginal groups believe that playing it makes women infertile.
Drinking and nightlife
Darwin’s alcohol consumption is notorious and weekend nights can get lively. The main focus is along Mitchell Street where a cluster of terrace-fronted bars compete for trade with happy hours, big-screen sport and acoustic live music. For a more sedate evening head down to the Waterfront Quarter or catch a movie under the stars. There’s no mass-market NT-brewed beer, but for the ultimate hangover cure, try an omnipresent Pauls Iced Coffee (only sold in the Territory).
Eating
Darwin has a surprisingly sophisticated restaurant scene. Local favourites can often fill up, so try to book ahead. Look out for seafood, particularly barramundi, a sweet-tasting fighting fish which is near inescapable on the city’s menus. Mindil Beach and Parap markets boast a plethora of Asian food stalls, while there are inexpensive seafood takeaways on Stokes Hill Wharf.
Top End weather
There is a certain amount of misunderstanding about the Top End’s tropical climate, usually summed up as the hot and humid “Dry” and the hotter and very humid “Wet”. Give or take a couple of weeks either way, this is the pattern: the Dry begins in April when rains stop and humidity decreases – although this always remains high, whatever the season. The bush is at its greenest, and engorged waterfalls pound the base of the escarpments, although it may take a couple of months for vehicle access to be restored to all far-flung tracks. From April until October skies are generally cloud-free, with daily temperatures reliably peaking in the low thirties centigrade, though June and July nights might cool down to 10°C – sheer bliss for unacclimatized tourists.
From October until December temperatures and humidity begin to rise during the Build Up. Clouds accumulate to discharge brief showers, and it’s a time of year when the weak-willed or insufficiently drunk can flip out and “go troppo” as the unbearable heat, humidity and dysfunctional air-conditioning push people over the edge. Around November storms can still be frustratingly dry but often give rise to spectacular lightning shows. Only when the monsoonal Wet season commences at the turn of the year do the daily afternoon storms rejuvenate and saturate the land. This daily cycle lasts for two months or so and is much more tolerable than you might expect, with a daily thunderous downpour cooling things down from the mid- to low thirties.
Cyclones occur most commonly at either end of the Wet and can dump 30cm of rain in as many hours, with winds of up to 300kph. Frequent updates on the erratic path and intensity of these tropical depressions are given on the radio, so most people are prepared when a storm hits. Some fizzle out or head back out to sea; others can intensify and zigzag across the land, most infamously in the form of 1974’s Cyclone Tracy, which pulverized Darwin.
And if further proof were needed that the Top End’s weather patterns warrant more distinction than merely Wet and Dry, know that the region’s Aboriginal groups traditionally recognize no less than six distinct seasons.
