Leeuwarden: the coolest Dutch city you’ve never heard of

By nature of its design, there is something immutable about Leeuwarden, the capital of Friesland in the Netherlands’ northwesternmost province. Hemmed in by historic canals, reflective lakes, century-old dikes and dairy farms, the city wears its Dutch stripes well, offering a stopped-clock snapshot of the country as it once was. But look beyond the gabled houses, canal boats and cheese shops, and there’s something far more intoxicating and anarchic going on.

Despite outsider status, Leeuwarden-Fryslân is in the midst of an upswing, beating rivals Maastricht and Eindhoven to be crowned this year’s joint European Capital of Culture – a title it’s sharing with Valletta in Malta. The city is reveling in its new role as an exaggerated community of creativity, too, and the arts scene is thriving. Leeuwarden may only receive a trickle of tourists compared to Amsterdam or Rotterdam, but that’s just another reason to go. Here are six reasons why it should be your next stop in the Netherlands.

1. It’s the home of MC Escher

2. The 19th-century prison is now a radical cultural hub

3. You can “borrow a Frisian” for the afternoon

4. Friesian horses are treated like A-listers

5. It’s the starting point for the bucket-list 11 cities tour

While the race hasn’t been staged since 1997, the Frisians continue to suffer from the much talked-about ‘eleven cities fever’; whenever there is the merest whisper of frost on the breeze, ice skates are sharpened and anticipation becomes electric. Still, despite the warm weather, it’s relentlessly satisfying to cycle the canals from town to town, gazing at the windmills and dikes, peeking into this far-flung corner of the Netherlands. Like elsewhere, bikes and bike racks are everywhere, so there’s no better way to get around.

6. You can map the stars at the world’s oldest working planetarium

Explore more of the Netherlands with The Rough Guide to the Netherlands. Compare flights, find tours, book hostels and hotels for your trip, and don’t forget to buy travel insurance before you go. Header image: Peter vd Rol/Shutterstock.