A culinary journey through Constanța and Mamaia, Romania

Craving a few days in a sleepy beach town with a food scene worth telling my friends about, my mind wanders to Portugal’s cosmopolitan city of Lisbon, or the white domes of Mykonos in Greece. The problem being that other people’s minds (and feet) will likely wander there, too. An explosion of viral travel content on TikTok and Instagram is sending the same people to the same select destinations - and I want to avoid the crowds.

The last thing I hope to do on holiday is stress about booking restaurants weeks in advance, or jostle for a good photo opportunity. Happily, as a food and travel journalist I’m tasked with exploring lesser-known culinary scenes. My latest find? Constanța and nearby Mamaia, on Romania’s beautiful Black Sea coastline.

Three and a half hour’s drive from Otopeni Airport in Bucharest, Mamaia is a buzzy beach resort found on a thin strip of land between the Black Sea and Lake Siutghiol. Sun, sea, and sand it delivers, but with a twist; Romanian culture blends a quirky mix of age-old tradition and all the trappings of glitzy modernity. You can choose your adventure: old town taverns serve local wines and filling, farm-to-table dishes in rustic settings, while showy beach clubs shower guests with Champagne.

Beachside bites

I started my mornings with a spoiling buffet breakfast at my hotel, Lupa by Bueno, loading my plate with eggs before trying baba ganoush, hummus, fresh veggies, and caponata. I took the chance to explore Constanța’s growing coffee culture, venturing out early for a morning pick-me-up (The Coffee Shop poured a near-perfect matcha latte just three minutes’ walk from my bed). Caffeine fix sorted, my day centred around beating the heat at breezy beachside restaurants and cafes along the coast. 

Cherhana Pontica Mamaia was the scene of my trip’s stand-out lunch, renowned for its hyper local seafood dishes. We began with platters of smoked fish, blended roe, anchovies, and mussels straight from the Black Sea; testament to the region’s rich fishing heritage. Black Sea mussel soup was cooked in spicy tomato or white wine sauce, which visitors could choose between when lining up to meet the kind chef serving generous portions from a large open pot, stationed outdoors. Fans of creamy dishes will love the nation’s famed sour cream soup, made using a local ingredient called bors, prepared from wheat. 

When their meal is finished, people relax at outdoor tables with a drink, looking out to sea. If you enjoy dining by the water, Muse Restaurant at Tomis Touristic Port should also make your hit list; it’s a pretty place for an evening drink or a hunk of grilled steak, with glittering views across the harbour, the Marine Commandant Panoramic Wheel twinkling in the distance. It’s a great vantage point from which to wander to the Plaja Modern, or take the opposite direction to the promenade towards the famed Casino, built in 1910. Another popular waterside dining spot is Harlequin by The Lake in Mamaia, where festooned lighting and a pergola terrace dotted with sofas and tables makes for a scenic lunch.

After quaffing a few glasses of bubbles, a lazy afternoon on the beach sounded perfect. We easily grabbed a taxi to Nuba Beach Club, greeted by a sea of yellow Veuve Clicquot umbrellas and well-dressed guests. We were pleased to be able to rock up with no booking, poring over the all-day coffee menu and the cocktails. This is a great spot to order a locally-made ‘Hugo’ in place of your go-to Aperol Spritz, which I gladly did alongside post-lunch truffle fries.

Taking a breather

In Romania it’s common to find traditional flavours given a contemporary twist, the Hugo cocktail being a great example. Originating from South Tyrol, this refreshing drink combines mint, elderflower syrup, Prosecco, and seltzer. The best versions use local lemonade, specifically made in Springtime - a beloved local specialty that evokes a sense of nostalgia. Fresh and sweet, the concoction must be consumed within two days before it turns sour. 

Our first taste of the local beverage was offered at Italian fusion spot BETA, in Constanța city centre. A welcome way to cool off after trekking around town, ticking off the Popular Art Museum, Ovidiu Square, the History Museum, Nicolae Titulescu street and several architectural heritage buildings. We refuelled for an afternoon of exploring with heaving platters of fresh pork, chicken, and crispy potato wedges. Elsewhere on the menu you could find pasta, pizza, and plenty of seafood.

There’s a lot to cover in one small, walkable area - make sure to see the Anghel Saligny statue, commemorating a remarkable engineer who contributed to the modernisation of railway, before wandering along Queen Elisabeth boulevard - the beautiful Art Nouveau-style style Casino and nearby promenade is worth seeking out, framed by trees.

Many statues and buildings signal the journey to the end of communism in 1989, the catalyst for much change and modernisation in Romania. As we toured these historic sights, one local in our group shared vivid childhood memories of simpler times. She told us about happy days spent in the countryside as a child, where the best meals came from her grandmother’s kitchen. Fresh cheese from sheep and cows, meals enjoyed in fields, and the simple pleasure of drinking milk straight from the bowl are cherished recollections that are still celebrated in many restaurants and taverns from the city to the beach. 

Modern day locals might pass the time wandering the Casino area of Mamaia, watching live concerts and indulging in a little late-night shopping, before stopping to eat. Our group chose Nikos Greek Taverna, opting for Greek salads and mixed grill plates piled with fried potatoes, pork rib, chicken skewers, and tzatziki. Outstanding was the dessert; a fantastically creamy Greek yoghurt drizzled with honey and walnuts. 

Exploring the wineries

Later in the trip, I was delighted to discover that a short coach ride from Constanța (around 18km) takes you to the Dobrogea region, home to several unforgettable wineries. Leaving early - around 8.30am -  my group (just about) managed to drink its way through both Viișoara Winery and Murfatlar Winery in one day - even finding time to visit the stunning Saint Andrew Monastery, built near an atmospheric cave consecrated in 1943. 

The former winery has an impressive capacity of one million bottles, and the latter is often touted as Romania’s ‘No.1’ wine, owing to a heady combination of high temperatures and calcareous soils comparable to those found in Champagne, France. You should find something to suit your tastes: at Murfatlar Winery you can try Feteasca, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Muscat Ottonel and Lacrima lui Ovidiu (whites) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Feteasca Neagra and Shiraz (reds). We tried several alongside plates of cheese, apple and walnuts, taking refuge from the sweltering heat.

These characterful vineyards offer a window into Romania’s rich viticultural history - and quite the party. Our last evening was spent peacefully wandering through Murfatlar Winery’s vineyard at sunset, taking photos in the evening sun, before things ramped up a notch. 

We were captivated by local’s tales of their grandparents making wine in their homes, in huge barrels just like the stunning oak vessels painted with folk art, that add whimsical decor to Murfatlar’s already stunning grounds. We couldn’t have predicted the heaving dancefloor that filled soon after a local band piped us into the dining area, continuing well into the night after we feasted on endless, heaving platters of cheese and charcuterie. Now those are the crowds I’m happy to seek out.

This post was made in partnership with Mamaia Constanța.