A first-timer's guide to Kruger National Park

Kruger, South Africa's first national park, has been part of the national psyche for as long as anyone can remember. The name alone conjures images of crackling braais and campfire tales, of dog-eared maps and inviting dirt roads, and of elephants that are inevitably too close for comfort. For many, it's one of the greatest game reserves on Earth.

The park hugs the northeastern boundary with Mozambique, covering an area the size of Wales. And within its borders? The Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard), so abundant that even a first-time visitor can cross them off their list by lunchtime, plus plenty more besides. Here is our beginner's guide to Kruger National Park.

Why should I go?

When should I go?

But there are perks to visiting at any time of year. In summer (November to December), for instance, the bush is lush thanks to heavy rains, the bird population hits the roof and you'll find many of the animals with young. You can't get much cuter than a hyena cub.

How do I see the park?

When it comes to your car, there are a few things you should know. First, you'll need a credit card, as you can't rent a car in South Africa without one – a lesson you don't want to learn the hard way. Next, go for height over style, as taller cars will help you get a better view over the long grass. A four-wheel drive is a plus (though not essential), as is air conditioning. And finally, get the best insurance you can afford – you never know what'll happen when you meet an elephant.

Wait, is it dangerous?

Learn how to act around big game, particularly elephants: give them plenty of room, switch off your engine, stay quiet and never get between an elephant mother and her calf. If you spot any signs of aggression, such as an elephant kicking up dust, flapping its ears and trumpeting, back away slowly, as they can flip cars. If you follow these rules, you'll rarely get into trouble.

Got it. Any other tips?

When driving, go slow – a car crawling along at 15km/h is the mark of a Kruger veteran. Scour the long grass for a flick of an ear or a swish of a tail and listen for anything unusual, like the crunching of grass underfoot or a tell-tale alarm call. It also pays to know where to look: lions often nap in the shade, while a leopard is unlikely to stray far from cover.

What shouldn't I miss?

If that sounds too adventurous, then opt instead for an organised game drive either early in the morning or late at night. You'll have the chance to spot nocturnal animals, including genets, civets and owls, which you wouldn't otherwise see (as self-driving is only permitted in daylight hours). To book, enquire at any of the main camps.

The south of the park is best for first-time visitors as it has the densest population of big game, and there are some drives here you definitely shouldn't miss. First, there's the route from Skukuza camp to Satara: watch the sunrise from the bird hide at Lake Panic, then head north via the southernmost baobab tree. Just before you hit Satara, turn onto the S100 – the park's legendary white lion is most often spotted here.

Another must is the route from Lower Sabie to Tshokwane Picnic Spot. The road winds steadily higher until you reach Nkumbe lookout, where the savanna stretches out below you for miles. This really is one of Africa's great views.

Where should I stay?

Satara is based in big cat country, and its circular clusters of rondavels are particularly atmospheric when lit by the glow of the braais at night. Skukuza is the park's HQ and has the feel of a small town, while Olifants wins the prize for the best view, looking down over the Olifants River.

For more of a bush feel, try the tents at Letaba, set deep in mopane forest, or Tamboti – this secluded camp is visited nightly by honey badgers and genets, and hyenas often prowl the fence. If that's still not adventurous enough, book to stay at either Sable or Shipandani after hours.

I'm convinced – how do I make this happen?

There are three main options to get to Kruger: fly to Johannesburg and then drive just over four hours to the park; take an internal flight from Johannesburg to Kruger Mpumalanga airport and then drive an hour; or take an internal flight from Johannesburg straight into Skukuza.

Georgia flew to Kruger Mpumalanga airport with South African Airways, which introduced the new Airbus A330-300 on its daily London-Johannesburg service in 2018. Return flights start from £957.01. For more information, visit flysaa.com.

Top image: Lion mother and cub © Thomas Retterath / Shutterstock

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