Deira Islands
Look out over the water from Corniche near the food market and you’ll see a long strip of empty land running parallel with the old shoreline. This was originally intended to form the base of the Palm Deira, the third of Dubai’s trio of palm-shaped islands. An extensive area of land (a quarter of the planned total) had already been reclaimed when work was suspended during the financial crisis of 2008. The project hung in limbo for several years until late 2013, when developers Nakheel announced that the development would resume in somewhat reduced circumstances, now rechristened Deira Islands and comprising a trio of miniature islands formed from land already reclaimed. The new development will add some 23km of coastline including over 8km of new beach, as well as providing land for the usual malls (including a new Night Souk), hotels and apartments, with the first openings due in 2018.
Dhow Wharfage
Stretching along the Deira creekside east of the Grand Souk between Deira Old Souk and Al Sabkha abra stations, the Dhow Wharfage offers a fascinating glimpse into the maritime traditions of old Dubai that have survived miraculously intact at the heart of the twenty-first-century city. At any one time, the wharfage is home to dozens of beautiful wooden dhows, some as much as a hundred years old, which berth here to load and unload cargo; hence the great tarpaulin-covered mounds of merchandise – anything from cartons of cigarettes to massive air-conditioning units – that lie stacked up along the waterfront. The dhows themselves range in size from the fairly modest vessels employed for short hops up and down the coast to the large ocean-going craft used to transport goods around the Gulf and over to Iran, and even as far afield as Somalia, Pakistan and India. Virtually all of them fly the UAE flag, although they’re generally manned by foreign crews who live on board, their lines of washing strung out across the decks and piles of cooking pots giving the boats a quaintly domestic air in the middle of Deira’s roaring traffic. Hang around long enough and you might be invited to hop on board for a chat (assuming you can find a shared language) and a cup of tea.
Gold Souk
Deira’s famous Gold Souk is usually the first stop for visitors to the district and attracts a cosmopolitan range of customers, from Western tourists to African traders buying up pieces for resale at home. There are over three hundred shops here, most of them lined up along the souk’s wooden-roofed main arcade, their windows packed with a staggering quantity of jewellery. It’s been estimated that there are usually around ten tonnes of gold in the souk at any one time, although even this is just one part of the city's much larger overall gold trade which now contributes some US $70 billion to the city's economy annually, representing no less than 25 percent of the world's entire annual trade in gold.
The souk’s main attraction for shoppers is price: the gold available here is among the cheapest in the world, and massive competition keeps prices keen. The jewellery on offer ranges from ornate Arabian creations to elegantly restrained pieces aimed at European visitors. Particularly appealing are the traditional Emirati bracelets, fashioned from solid gold (and often exquisitely embellished with white-gold decoration) and hung in long lines in shop windows; these were traditionally used for dowries, as were the heavier and more ornate necklaces also on display. There are also plenty of places selling precious stones, including diamonds and a range of other gems.
Shopping in the Gold Souk
The gold industry in Dubai is carefully regulated, so there’s no danger of being ripped off with substandard or fake goods, but there are still a few useful basic things to know. First, gold jewellery is sold by weight (the quality and detail of the decoration and workmanship, however elaborate, isn’t usually factored into the price). Second, the price of gold is fixed in all shops citywide (the daily price is displayed on video screens at either end of the souk; the exact figure fluctuates daily depending on the international price of gold). Therefore, if you ask how much a piece of jewellery is, it will first be weighed, and the cost then calculated according to the day’s gold price.
Once you’ve established this basic price, it’s time to start bargaining. A request for the shop's “best price” should yield an immediate discount of around 20–25 percent over the basic price; you may be able to lower the price still further depending on how desperate the shop staff are for a sale. As ever, it pays to shop around and compare prices; tell the shop that you’ve found a better deal elsewhere, if necessary. If you’re buying multiple items, press for further discounts.
If you can’t find what you want in the Gold Souk, try one of the sizeable malls – Gold Land, The Gold Center and Gold House – stuffed full of gold, or the jewellery shops lined up along Al Khaleej Road a short distance to the north.
Shopping for precious stones is more complicated, and it pays to do some research before leaving home. Diamonds are a particularly good buy in Dubai, often selling at up to half the price they would retail for in the West. If you’re buying diamonds, it’s also well worth visiting the excellent Gold and Diamond Park in southern Jumeirah. The area around the Gold Souk is also one of the major centres of Dubai’s flourishing trade in designer fakes.
Grand Souk Deira
Southwest of the Gold Souk stretches the extensive covered souk formerly known as Al Souk al Kabeer (“The Big Souk”), once the largest and most important market in Deira. It's now been extensively renovated and rechristened the Grand Souk Deira, with the shops given uniform facades in traditional-looking stone, similar to those in Bur Dubai’s Textile Souk. It's all pleasant enough, although the merchandise on offer (mainly household goods and cheap toys) is humdrum and the main drag here is popular with touts attempting to lasso passing tourists with the usual offers of copy bags, nice pashminas and genuine fake watches.
Spice Souk
Tucked into the southeast corner of the Grand Souk, the diminutive Spice Souk (now signed “Herbs Market”) is perhaps the most atmospheric – and certainly the most fragrant – of the city’s many bazaars. Run almost exclusively by Iranian traders, the shops here stock a wide variety of culinary, medicinal and cosmetic products, with tubs of merchandise set out in front of each tiny shopfront. All the usual spices can be found – cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, coriander – along with more unusual offerings such as dried cucumbers and lemons (a common ingredient in Middle Eastern cuisine), incense and heaps of hibiscus and rose petals, used to make a delicately scented tea. The souk is also famous for its frankincense, sold in various different forms and grades – the most common type looks like a kind of reddish, crumbling crystalline rock; frankincense burners can be bought in the souk for a few dirhams. Most stalls also sell natural cosmetic products such as pumice and alum (a clear rock crystal used to soothe the skin after shaving), while male visitors in search of a pick-me-up will also find plentiful supplies of so-called “natural viagra”.