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The two historic mountain provinces of Beira Alta (Upper) and Beira Baixa (Lower) feature some of the most spectacular landscapes in the country, from upland plains of enormous boulders to towering mountain peaks. This harsh but beautiful landscape was home to the mighty warrior Viriatus, who used its remote wildness to his advantage when repelling the Romans. Later, as Portugal strived for nationhood, many of the towns along and near the disputed border with Spain acquired mighty castles, still in existence today. The ancient town of Viseu is the pleasant capital of Beira Alta province and the only place of any real size in the region. The fast east–west A25 links Viseu to the mountain-top town of Guarda – with Spain another 40km to the east – while to the north, between the highway and the Douro River, are the high-sited castle-towns of the planalto (or tableland). Some, like medieval, walled Trancoso, or the star-shaped fortress town of Almeida, are worth a day of anyone’s time.
South of the main highway rises the Serra da Estrela mountain range, whose landscape is protected under the auspices of the Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela. Mountain villages, tumbling rivers and glacial valleys are linked by an extensive series of hiking trails, though there’s also road access to the major settlements, notably the enjoyable small town of Manteigas. The park’s southeastern boundary is flanked by the university town of Covilhã, handy for the winter ski fields and the ascent of mainland Portugal’s highest mountain, Torre.
South and east of Covilhã lies the sombre plain of the lower province, Beira Baixa, whose parched landscape has its own mysterious beauty, dotted with cork, carob and olive trees. Castelo Branco in the south is the provincial capital, but most tourist attention is centred on the ancient hilltop villages rising dramatically from the surrounding plains, notably Sortelha and Monsanto. There’s historic interest, too, in pretty Belmonte, halfway between Covilhã and Guarda, and in the extensive Roman remains at isolated Idanha-a-Velha. Meanwhile, in the border hills and reservoirs of the Serra da Malcata, there are hiking, biking and wildlife-spotting opportunities.
Iberian Blend - Porto and Galicia
Neighbour countries - Portugal and Spain, different and similar at the same time, will surprise you with hospitality and loveliness. This itinerary includes the route of the Northwest part of Iberian Peninsula and offers you to meet beautiful Porto and stunning Vigo in Galicia/Spain.
customize ⤍The Real Algarvian Experience
Experience and discover the real Algarve – taste local produce, drinks and traditional dishes, visit heritage sites and participate in culinary activities. If you are passionate about the people’s culture and gastronomy and want to learn more, this itinerary is for you.
customize ⤍A self drive to Portugal's North and Center
Starting in fascinating Lisbon, this trip allows you to discover Portugal both on your own as well as with guided tours. Driving further up north you'll explore Coimbra and Porto before heading to the Douro Valley and Alentejo.
customize ⤍Porto and the North of Portugal: off the beaten track
From Porto, you'll discover the most fascinating parts of Northern Portugal: go on a hike through unique biodiversity around the Paiva river, take a jeep tour through the slopes of the Serra da Arada and taste the wonderful wines of the Douro valley.
customize ⤍The best of Portugal: Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve
Portugal offers many highlights but when you're short on time, this trip is ideal to cover all the highlights: the capital city of Lisbon, historic Porto, lush Douro Valley and the stunning beaches of the Algarve are all part of this trip.
customize ⤍Azores Wild Nature
Get ready to discover what the largest island of the Azores, São Miguel, has to offer in this short adventure-packed 6-day trip. You will get to swim with wild dolphins, abseil or jump down waterfalls, ride a mountain bike through the Sete Cidades and relax in a natural spa. Adventure awaits!
customize ⤍Madeira and São Miguel - guided island adventures
Visit two of Portugal's autonomous regions: Madeira, the island of eternal spring as they call it, as well as São Miguel, nicknamed the green island. Guided excursions will take you to the highlights of both islands and there's plenty of time to discover on your own or simply relax.
customize ⤍Lisbon and the South of Portugal: exploration and relaxation
Take your rental car and discover Lisbon, Sintra & Cascais before heading to Alentejo. This fascinating region features many historic gems to discover, as well as a unique cuisine to taste. Finish your trip with some beach days in Tavira on Portugal's Algarve coast.
customize ⤍The Wines of Portugal
This unforgettable trip will take you to Portugal's finest wine-producing regions, including the Douro Valley. Sample the finest local labels, and explore the exciting and stunningly beautiful cities of Lisbon and Porto, complemented by guided tours of their historical old towns.
customize ⤍Discovering the coast of Portugal
Explore the beautiful cities along the coast of Portugal. Start your journey discovering historic sites and wineries in Porto, from there you will head South to Lisbon. Along the way, you will get a chance to visit charming coastal towns, dramatic cliffs and national parks.
customize ⤍Like most planalto settlements, Trancoso grew up around its castelo – and like any town with a castle, trouble was generally to be expected from one quarter or another. Even once the Moors had been finally vanquished, there were still centuries during which armies came and went across the tablelands, using Trancoso as a base or a defensive position. It’s surprising that the walls have survived at all – never mind that they remain in such good condition – while its well-restored towers can be seen from afar as you drive towards town.
Medieval Trancoso had a large Jewish community, which enjoyed a relatively harmonious existence here (as in the rest of Portugal) until the late fifteenth century when Dom Manuel I ordered Jews to be expelled from the country. The former rabbi’s house in Trancoso is known as the Casa do Gato Preto (House of the Black Cat), its facade featuring a prominent Lion of Judah. Other buildings in the old town also display features that hark back to a prosperous Jewish community quietly going about its business until religion and politics stepped in. The oldest houses, for example, have separate doorways, one for business and one used by the family, while others are marked with carved crosses, ordered by the Inquisition (active in Portugal from the 1530s onwards) to show that the inhabitants were “New Christian” converts.
Almeida played a key role in the Peninsular War. Besieged here in 1810 by the Napoleonic army, the garrison held out for seventeen days until, on July 26, a barrel of gunpowder ignited and began a devastating fire. That should have been it for the town, and the remaining survivors gave themselves up, but they were reprieved when the Duke of Wellington later arrived with full army in tow – the French army disappeared into the night and Almeida was saved.
You’ll easily find your way up to what’s left of the castle, blown up in 1810, the foundations now exposed under a modern walkway. Behind here, in one of the star-points, is the picadeiro, the restored cavalry barracks and horse-training area, whose stables offer short riding lessons and horse-and-buggy rides around town.
Four kilometres west of Castelo Bom, the preserved medieval village of Castelo Mendo is a gem. Two headless Celtic granite pigs guard the main gateway, through which cobbled streets twist up to a grassy knoll topped by a roofless church and the sketchy remains of the castle keep. It’s a glorious spot, sitting on the lip of a sheltered bowl of land, with views across the undulating countryside.
For the Portuguese Belmonte is best known as the birthplace of Pedro Álvares Cabral (1467–1520), the “discoverer” of Brazil, who was born in the tidily restored castelo overlooking town. Cabral’s father received the castle from Dom Afonso V, and adapted it as the family residence, though it later fell into disrepair. The Igreja de Santiago, just outside the castle walls, contains the Cabral family pantheon (though not the tomb of Pedro Álvares, which is in Santarém), while one of two tiny stone chapels on a hillock opposite is inscribed with the Cabral family coat of arms – two goats within a shield. The Cabral trail also extends to the main through-road named in his honour, where there’s a statue of the explorer clutching a large cross.
The reserve covers 16,000 hectares of heather-clad hills and oak woodland, with the reserve headquarters in Penamacor. They can usually rustle up an English-speaking member of staff, and the office also sells a map and separate walking booklet in English. Note that not all the hiking trails are currently signposted, as neglect, forest fires and vandalism have taken their toll – but you can always follow our directions instead.
Drive 15km down the minor but good 538 road from Sabugal. At Quadrazais, take the Vale de Espinho road and 500m down this road take the right turn down a good dirt track (signposted “Reserva Natural, Rio Côa”) for 300m to the River Côa. Drive over the bridge to the parking and picnic area and then walk up to the trail information board. Don’t turn left for the chapel, but head straight up the track by the side of the wire fence, and turn right when you reach a T-junction after 750m. The track skirts the flank of a hill, through pine nurseries, and after 1.25km meets another T-junction at a ruined building, where you turn left (a wooden “PR1” marker shows the turn). Continue for another 1km, through shady groves of oak, reaching a left turn on a rise with wind turbine views (again, there’s a wooden “PR1” marker). Turn left here and it’s then 1.6km around the other flank of the hill, dropping down to the chapel and river, where you started.
It’s nice to combine this walk with lunch at the appealing Trutal Côa restaurant (open for lunch and dinner daily except Weds; 271 606 227), located at the trout farm, just a few kilometres away – it’s 2km before the village of Vale de Espinho.
Set amid burned plains and olive groves, the old village is still partly girded by a massive Roman wall. Down by the languid river the Roman bridge is still in use, while roses and vines are trained up the weathered walls of the houses, many built from plundered Roman stone. A stork’s nest tops the ancient basilica – signposted as the Sé – while outside here stand the ruins of the bishop’s palace and an even earlier Roman house. Perhaps the most fascinating restoration is of the old oil press or Lagar de Varas, with an ingenious pressing system utilizing two huge tree trunks, with roots intact. The basilica and the olive-oil-press building should be open during turismo office hours, but if not, just ask.
written by Mani Ramaswamy
updated 26.04.2021
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