National Museum
The National Museum on Pyay Road is a litany of missed opportunities to showcase Myanmar’s rich culture and history. Most exhibits languish in poorly lit cases with no explanatory text, with the notable exception of the prominently displayed Lion Throne of the last Burmese king.
Shwedagon Paya
The vibrant heart of Buddhist Myanmar, the huge golden stupa of Shwedagon Paya is located less than 3km northwest of the downtown area, and is visible throughout much of the city. Legends claim that a shrine was first built here during the lifetime of the Buddha to house eight of his hairs which were brought back by two merchants, but the current structure was rebuilt most recently in 1775 following an earthquake.
It’s possible to approach along covered stairways from any of the four cardinal directions, or a wheelchair-accessible lift in the south. The huge, solid main stupa may dominate the 14-acre platform at the top, but there’s a whole host of smaller shrines, stupas and Buddha images surrounding it. For many locals, a visit to the pagoda is a social event as well as a religious one, a chance to catch up with friends and family or to meet with business contacts. The pagoda is particularly atmospheric in the evenings, which is also when novice monks visit in the hope of practicing their English with foreigners.
As at all Buddhist holy places, you should walk clockwise around Shwedagon. The first thing many Buddhists do is visit the appropriate shrine for the day of their birth, offering flowers, lighting a candle and pouring water on the image. Next they will visit each of the four large Buddhas, one facing each entry point. Look out also for a Buddha on the south side which has been carved from a single piece of jade, and the damaged Singu Min Bell on the west side – the British looted it in 1825 but when they got it to the river their ship sank.
Sri Devi
A Tamil temple at the corner of 51st Street and Anawrahta Road, Sri Devi is a brightly coloured change from the usual white-and-gold Buddhist pagodas. Puja (ritual offerings to the deities) takes place at 8am and 6pm, while the temple’s biggest annual festival is on June 10. The priests prefer you not to take photos of the statues of gods.
Sule Paya and Mahabandoola Garden
When the British drew up a plan for the city’s streets, they put Sule Paya at the heart; today its golden central stupa, 45m tall, is still one of the most striking landmarks in downtown Yangon. The pagoda is surrounded by a ring of shops and forms a busy roundabout, which buses hurtle around throughout the day, but is surprisingly calm inside. You’ll be pestered by unlicensed moneychangers around here, but don’t be tempted – they’re notorious for scamming the unwary.
Just southeast of Sule Paya is Mahabandoola Garden, a bit scruffy but another good place to escape the downtown bustle. Its statue of Queen Victoria is long gone, and today it contains an austere independence monument placed there in 1950. Fortune-tellers ply their trade outside the garden’s railings.