The best accommodation is at Las Termas de Papallacta (t 06/2320620, Quito office at Foch E7-38 and Reina Victoria t 02/2568989, w www.termaspapallacta.com; over $121), which offers comfortable rooms or heated, spacious cabins for up to six people, some fitted with sunken bath and a private outdoor hot tub ($152). There are several other hotels dotted along the road between the Termas de Papallacta and the village, including the friendly Hostería Pampa Llacta (t 06/2320624, [email protected]; $36–50), halfway down; it has a nice indoor pool, two outdoor pools and a restaurant, and offers a variety of lodging from compact singles with fireplaces to spacious family cabins sleeping four ($61) or seven ($135). Down in the village, El Viajero (t 08/7042389; $11–15) is a simple budget hotel on the Calle Principal while Coturpa (t 06/2320640; $26–35), opposite the Complejo Santa Catalina, offers en-suite rooms and has a private thermal pool, sauna and steam room for guests at weekends. Camping is possible at the Termas de Papallacta for $6 per person.

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