Some 40km north of Tolhuin, the most beautiful of the central rutas complementarias – the RCa – branches east through golden pastureland towards the coast and the knobbly protrusion of Cabo San Pablo. A wonderful panorama stretches out from the south side of Cabo San Pablo, encompassing the wreck of the Desdémona, grounded during a storm in the early 1980s – at low tide, you can walk out to the ship – but the area is mainly of interest to fishermen. Beyond the cape, the road continues for 17km through wetlands and burnt-out “tree cemeteries” and past the odd beaver dam to the Estancia Fueguina, from where you’ll need a high-clearance 4WD to progress any further.

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