Do not try to drive around the south shore of Lago Posadas, even though a road is marked on many maps: cars can easily get bogged down near the Río Furioso. Instead, take the route running around the north shore, which passes through a zone of blasted, bare humps, crisscrossed by lines of duraznillo bushes. Known as El Quemado (The Burnt One), it’s one of the most ancient formations in Argentina, dating back 180 million years to the Jurassic Age, and there are spectacular contrasts between minerals such as green olivina sandstone and porphyry iron oxides.

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