North of Santiago Ixcuintla, located on a lily-strewn lagoon and supporting only a few hundred habitants (mostly shrimp farmers), is the extraordinary islet of MEXCALTITÁN. The“House of the Mexicans” in Náhautl, the town really does look like a very tiny version of Tenochtitlán, the Aztec capital before the Spaniards arrived. Indeed, the place is one candidate for the legendary Aztec homeland Aztlán, from which the tribe set out on their exodus to the Valley of México around 1091 AD; the small Museo del Origen addresses that hypothesis with a collection of archeological relics. If you’re in the area around the end of June you should definitely try to visit the island fiesta, on June 28 and 29 (the feast days of Saints Peter and Paul), when there are canoe races on the lagoons and rivers; be sure to make a reservation.

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