There’s a bracing tang of salt and fish in the air in PRINCE RUPERT, a distinctive port on Kaien Island – linked by bridge to the mainland – that comes as an invigorating relief after the run out of Prince George. A stunning place when the mist lifts, it looks out over an archipelago of islands and is ringed by mountains that tumble to the sea along a beautiful fjord-cut coastline. A crowd of cars, backpackers and RVs washes daily through its streets off the Alaska, the Queen Charlotte and Port Hardy ferries, complementing the seafront’s vibrant activity, and adding to the coffers of a town clearly on the up. In the summer, cruise ships make four-hour pit stops here, spewing up to two thousand passengers ashore at a time to gorge on fish and chips and sightsee. There’s plenty of outdoor and indoor attractions, and it’s an amiable enough spot to while away a day while you’re waiting for a boat. Some of the highlights include tours of the world-renowned Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary, whale-watching and a stop at the Museum of Northern British Columbia.