The remote Western Brook Pond, reached by just one access point, 25km north of Rocky Harbour beside Rte-430, is one of eastern Canada’s most enchanting landscapes, 16km of deep, dark-blue water framed by mighty mountains and huge waterfalls. From the car park it’s a forty-minute (3km) walk on a well-maintained trail through forest and over bog to the edge of the lake. When you get to the end, don’t skimp on the two-hour boat trip (reservations required; July & Aug daily 10am & 11am; $56; 12.30pm & 1.30pm, $65; 3pm, 4pm & 5pm, $60; June & Sept daily 12.30pm, $60) operated by Bontours. The boat inches its way between the cliffs right to the extreme eastern end of the lake, past several huge rockslides, dramatic hanging valleys and former sea caves now marooned high above the water.

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