Julius Caesar uttered his famous “I came, I saw, I conquered” in Tokat, and unsubstantiated rumours suggest that he did so after sampling the huge local kebab. You can do the same on your visit to the city, though be warned that it’s a beast – a mouthwatering (and very filling) combination of roast lamb, potatoes, aubergine, tomato and peppers, grilled beneath a whole bulb of garlic, whose juices permeate the meal. Amazingly, this style has yet to take hold anywhere further than Amasya, and almost faded out in Tokat itself before making a recent comeback. Prices are in the region of TL20–25, and if it takes less than 20min to land on your table, it’s not the real deal.

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