A good way to find out more about the Sámi culture (which manifests itself more and more as you travel north from here) is to visit Lappstaden, which lies just off the main drag, Storgatan. Although you probably won’t meet any Sámi here, you will at least be able to see how they used to live in traditional huts, or kåtor. About eighty of these huts in the eighteenth-century Sámi church town have survived, and are clumped unceremoniously next to a yellow, modern apartment building. The design of these huts – square wooden buildings supporting a pyramid-shaped roof – is typical of the Forest Sámi who lived in the surrounding forests, constructing their homes of indigenous timber. Local Sámi schoolteacher, Karin Stenberg, made it her life’s work to preserve Lappstaden, and the huts are still used today during the last weekend in August as a venue for a special festival, Storstämningshelgen.

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