Madrid’s range of eating establishments is legion, and includes tapas bars, cafés, marisquerías (seafood bars) and restaurantes. At almost any of our recommendations you could happily eat your fill – money permitting – though at bars, madrileños usually eat just a tapa or share a ración of the house speciality, then move on to repeat the procedure down the road. While cafés do serve food, they are much more places to drink coffee, have a copa or caña, or read the papers. Some also act as a meeting place for the semi-formal tertulia – a kind of discussion/drinking group, popular among Madrid intellectuals of the past and revived in the 1980s.

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