Famed until the time of Columbus as the western limit of the world, the town of FISTERRA (Finisterre) still looks like it’s about to drop off the end of the earth. On a misty, out-of-season day, it can feel no more than a grey clump of houses wedged into the rocks, but it puts on a cheerier face in the summer sunshine.

Just beyond the southern end of Fisterra’s long harbour wall, a tiny bay cradles an appealing beach, overlooked by the pretty little eighteenth-century Castelo de San Carlos. Originally an artillery post, this now holds a museum of fishing (May–Aug daily 11am–2.30pm & 4–8pm; Sept–April Tues–Sat 10.30am–1.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 10.30am–1.30pm; €2). Beside the road south out of town, Santa María das Areas is a small but atmospheric church. Its beautiful carved altar, like the strange weathered tombs left of the main door, is considerably older than the rest of the building.

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