The Rías Baixas, much the most touristed portion of Galicia’s coastline, starts in the north with the Ría de Muros e Noia. In truth, it’s so close to the Costa da Morte that there’s little difference in climate or appearance, and it remains relatively underdeveloped, but unspoiled little MUROS is well worth visiting. Some of the best traditional Galego architecture outside Pontevedra can be found in its old town, enhanced by a marvellous natural setting at the widest point of the Ría de Muros, just before it meets the sea. The town rises in tiers of narrow streets from the curving waterfront, where fishing boats unload their catch, to the Romanesque Iglesia de San Pedro. Everywhere you look are squat granite columns and arches, flights of wide steps, and benches and stone porches built into the house fronts. There’s also a nice – though small – beach on the edge of town next to the road to Fisterra.

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