By contrast with most of its neighbours, the village of CAMBADOS, 5km south of the Illa de Arousa bridge, is exquisite. Only its historic core, however, set a couple of hundred metres back from the waterfront and easily missed altogether if you’re driving along the coast road, deserves such praise. The paved stone Praza de Fefiñáns here is an idyllic little spot, overlooked by a seventeenth-century church and lined on all sides with beautiful buildings, several of which hold wine shops and bodegas. As the vines crammed into its every spare square centimetre testify, Cambados is the main production centre for Galicia’s excellent Albariño wine.

The seafront itself is unremarkable, though a small island at its southern end holds the vestiges of a watchtower originally erected to look out for Viking raiders, while the vast seaweed-strewn flats exposed at each low tide play host to legions of redoubtable freelance clam- and cockle-pickers known as mariscadoras.

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