Tourism on a significant scale starts to make its presence felt in the next ría south, the RÍA de Arousa. The most popular destination is the old port of O Grove – linked by bridge to the island of A Toxa, which holds a very upscale enclave of luxury hotels – while much the nicest of the old towns hereabouts is Cambados, renowned for its beautiful central plaza. Sadly, both are bypassed by the rail line south from Santiago to Pontevedra and Vigo.

While strip development mars much of the coast, the hillsides just inland are a patchwork of tiny fields, primarily planted with the grapes that go into the delicious local Albariño wine. Gourmets will want to sample authentic pimientos in the village of Padrón.

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