FRÓMISTA still trades on the camino, but today’s small crossroads of a town has only a fraction of the population of medieval times. Its undisputed highlight is the church of San Martín, which was originally part of an abbey that no longer exists. Carved representations of monsters, human figures and animals run right around the roof of the eleventh-century church, which was built in a Romanesque style unusually pure for Spain, with no traces of later additions. A couple of other churches in Frómista are also associated with the camino, and there’s usually a steady trail of walkers and cyclists passing through, taking advantage of the simple accommodation here.

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