TRUJILLO is the most attractive town in Extremadura: a classic conquistador stage set of escutcheoned mansions, stork-topped towers and castle walls. A very small place, still only a little larger than its extent in conquistador times. Much of it looks virtually untouched since the sixteenth century, and it is redolent above all of the exploits of the conquerors of the Americas; Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru, was born here, as were many of the tiny band who with such extraordinary cruelty aided him in defeating the Incas.

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