A quiet, attractive village of reed-thatched cottages, ENISALA lies 8km east of Babadag, which is itself some 27km south of Tulcea.
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Commanding a superb spot atop a dry rocky outcrop overlooking Lake Razim is the Cetate Medievală (Medieval Fortress), built by Genoese merchants late in the thirteenth century at the behest of the Byzantine emperor, on the site of a seventh-century Byzantine fort. Taken by Sultan Mehmet I in 1417, it was held by the Ottomans until they abandoned it around the sixteenth century. The views out to the lake, and beyond to the Black Sea, are fantastic. This area is one of Europe’s prime birdwatching sites, thanks to a mix of habitats: a vast area of reedbeds along the shoreline, stretching back to open land and the Babadag forest. You’re likely to spot white-fronted and red-breasted geese, terns, waders, pelicans, herons and warblers. If you’re coming from Tulcea, watch the left side of the road: shortly before passing the citadel, you’ll see an apiary that supports a sizeable colony of bee-eaters.