About 25km northwest of Modena, up the Via Emilia, is REGGIO EMILIA, a pleasant, well-heeled place with a handsome historic core. Though nicknamed “the red town” – in 1960 five protestors were killed by police during demonstrations designed to prevent Fascists joining the government – you wouldn’t credit such a revolutionary past as you wander its quiet streets; these days, it’s more associated with high-end fashion house MaxMara.

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