Ferrara

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Thirty minutes by train north of Bologna, Ferrara was once the residence of the Este dukes, an eccentric dynasty that held serious political power during the Renaissance. The Este kept the leading artists of the time busy with commissions and built a town that, despite its modest size, was, and still is, one of the most elegant urban creations of the period.

If your Northern Italy tour takes you through Emilia-Romagna, Ferrara is well worth a stop for its rich history, refined architecture, and laid-back charm.

At the end of the sixteenth century, with no heir to inherit their lands, the Este were forced to hand over Ferrara to the papacy and leave for good. Life in the city effectively collapsed: eighteenth-century travellers found a ghost town of empty streets and clogged-up canals infested with mosquitoes. Since then Ferrara has picked itself up and dusted itself off, and is now a vibrant, provincial town that, with its grand squares, restored medieval palaces and portico-lined streets, looks a bit like a mini Bologna.

Ferrara’s main sights are clustered together in an area that’s easily explored on foot. The castle is the main focus, but several other palaces and museums offer reminders of the town’s more glorious past. Ferrara’s market days are Monday and Friday, with most activity taking place on Piazza Travaglio. On the first weekend of the month (except Aug) a large antiques market takes place between the Castello and the Duomo.

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Hit the streets – Ferrara by bike

Ferrara is as a città della bicicletta, where seemingly everyone makes the majority of their journeys by bike. Outside the centre, the roads are bordered by cycle lanes, while the centre is traffic-free although the streets are largely cobbled. The tourist office has details of routes both within the city and out into the Po Delta Park: see the Ferrara bike website for details.

Top image: Castle Estense (Castello Estense) and piazza Savonarola and monumet to Savonarola in Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna, Italy © Catarina Belova/Shutterstock

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