Signposted in Greek just after Aminatos on the Pelendri road – look out for the words “EOKA 1955–1959” – the activities of EOKA in this part of Pitsilia are comprehensively commemorated in the Monuments of Heroes (full title “The Monument of the Liberation Struggle of EOKA”), a heavily symbolic clutch of linked memorials in a woodland setting. Entrance is through the “Porticos”, which places the fight against the British against the backdrop of Greek history, and includes portraits of Makarios and Grivas, together with marble rolls of honour. This is followed with the Room of the Fighters, which has artwork and a big-screen film presentation, and the 108 Steps of Freedom, each representing a fallen EOKA fighter. The steps lead up to a large paved hilltop capped with the Monument of Freedom and the little Chapel of Panagia Eleftherotria, representing the large part played by the Greek Orthodox Church in the struggle.

Though the memorial might make uncomfortable viewing for British visitors, and it may seem a little florid to modern taste, nobody would argue today about Cyprus’s right to fight for independence, nor their courage in doing so. The memorials to the dead, the huge mural in the Room of the Fighters, and the serenity of the hilltop setting, are very affecting whatever the nationality or political orientation of the visitor.

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