Three of the seven Green Line crossing points are in Lefkosia: two pedestrian-only ones at the Ledra Palace and Ledra Street, and one for vehicles and pedestrians at Agios Dometios. This means that Lefkosia is the best place from which visitors can get a taste of northern Cyprus while being based in the south. Red tape is minimal – if you’re on foot, all you need is your passport. If you’re concerned that having a TRNC stamp in your passport might cause you grief on any future visit to Greece or Cyprus, ask that a separate slip of paper be stamped rather than the passport itself. You can then use this slip for any subsequent forays into the north. The most convenient place to cross on foot into north Lefkosia is the Ledra Street crossing from where the whole of the northern part of Lefkosia can be explored on foot.
Though getting into the north by car is a little more complicated, formalities are still minimal – you’ll need your passport, plus proof that you have motor insurance which is valid in the north. Some car rental companies will arrange this for you when you pick up your rental car; otherwise, you can get insurance at the border. But it still only takes a matter of minutes. The Agios Dometios crossing point is west of the city centre. It’s not well signposted (this is common on both sides of the Green Line) – when driving west along Leoforos Agiou Pavlou, when the road bears sharply to the left (immediately after Lefkosia Racecourse), look out for the crossing on the right. From the Agios Dometios crossing it’s no more than half an hour’s drive to Girne (Kyrenia), Cyprus’s most picturesque town, and to its spectacular mountain backdrop.