Heading south from Skanderbeg Square is the “Boulevard of National Martyrs” (Bulevard Dëshmorët e Kombit and Blloku). The first major sight is the National Art Gallery, which is well worth visiting for its renowned icons by Onufri, and a collection of Socialist Realist paintings. On the parallel road, Ibrahim Rugova, there’s the space-age Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, which is particularly striking at night. South of here, the pleasant green verges of the Lana are a good place to get a handle on some of Tirana’s famed colourful buildings. South of the river, any road to the west will take you to the Blloku district, while on the opposite side is the distinctive Pyramid. Apparently designed by Hoxha’s daughter (a disputed assertion), it first functioned as a museum dedicated to the leader, and then as a conference centre; it’s now dilapidated and defunct, though locals are fond of scaling its walls with a beer in hand. Continuing south, opposite the imposing former Communist Party HQ (now the Prime Minister’s residence), the 2013 PostBlloku monument provides an overdue memorial to the years of Cold War brutality: a restored concrete bunker (see box above) stands alongside a segment of the Berlin Wall and supports from a mine at Albania’s notorious Spaç forced labour camp. Walking south again, grandiose buildings rise up on either side of you until you emerge in Mother Teresa Square, home to a passable Archeological Museum (Mon–Fri 10.30am–2.30pm; 100L).