Lofty Kruja, 35km from Tirana, was the focal point of national hero Skanderbeg’s resistance to the Ottoman invasions of the fifteenth century, and you’ll see his likeness all over town. Most people make a beeline straight to the castle, which houses a number of restaurants and an excellent History Museum (Tues–Sun 9am–2pm & 4–7pm; 200L), whose diverting collection of weaponry, icons and the like is augmented by an impressive modern interior. Also within the castle walls is the Ethnographic Museum (Tues–Sun 9am–4pm; 300L), housed in a gorgeous building with a serene outdoor courtyard. Souvenir sellers have taken over the town, and the best place to buy your Albania-flag T-shirt, Skanderbeg statuette or Mother Teresa lighter is the restored Ottoman bazaar, just below the castle access road. Furgons from Tirana (1hr; 200L) leave regularly from the Zogu i Zi roundabout northwest of the city centre.