Thanks to extensive restoration in the 1990s, OLD SAN JUAN (Viejo San Juan) is a wonderfully preserved slice of eighteenth-century colonial Spain, its narrow streets lined with tempting restaurants and a range of modest but thought-provoking museums. Aimlessly wandering its quiet, cobbled back lanes is enchanting, with salsa music drifting out of half-shuttered windows, blossoms draped over wrought-iron balconies and the tempting aromas of criollo cooking wafting through the cracks of wooden doors.

The commercial parts of the old town tend to get overrun by day-trippers from cruise ships, but it’s easy to avoid the crowds and their presence has beneficial side effects – this is the safest part of the city and English is spoken everywhere.

Despite being fairly steep in parts, the streets of the old town are best appreciated on foot, though there are a couple of free trolley buses that trundle between the visitor centre and the main sights.



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