Cradled between some of the highest peaks on the island, ADJUNTAS is a remarkably traditional rural community, a million miles from urban Puerto Rico. It sits on one of the island’s primary north–south arteries, PR-10, 50km south of Arecibo and 30km north of Ponce, but with the highway now bypassing the town, its torpid centre seems frozen in the 1950s, with none of the strip malls and fast-food outlets that grace most Puerto Rican towns – for now. It’s also known as La Ciudad del Gigante Dormido (“the city of the sleeping giant”) after the ridge of mountains on its western side, which vaguely resemble the outline of a giant, lying face up. The town is perhaps best known in Puerto Rico today as the home of one of the island’s most successful conservation movements, Casa Pueblo. This local organization waged a long but eventually successful campaign against local open-mining of copper and gold deposits, and is today at the forefront of the Puerto Rican environmental movement. Adjuntas lies just off the Ruta Panorámica, around 32km from the heart of the Toro Negro.