Visitors destined for Negril tend to bomb along the highway to and from Montego Bay airport as quickly as possible, and consequently largely overlook the coastline of the parish of Hanover. Stopping at fishing villages cut off from the super-fast highway yields insouciant stares from locals, incredulous that you’ve torn yourself away from a resort. But the Hanover coastline has its more established attractions, too. The beautifully situated Rhodes Hall Plantation is an ideal spot for riding and diving, while there’s swimming at the marvellously secluded Half Moon Bay Beach, a far cry from the resort onslaught. The bustling market town of Lucea breathes life into the area as you head northeast from Negril, with its fair share of architectural gems, now complemented by its own large all-inclusive and a second branch of the popular north coast attraction Dolphin Cove. The mini-museum at Alexander Bustamante’s Blenheim birthplace is the only “official” historical site hereabouts, and as most people choose to remain within sight of the Caribbean Sea much of the inland Dolphin Head range of hills remains uncompromisingly indifferent to tourism.

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