About 10km north of Jocotenango, past Parramos, a side road branches to SAN ANDRÉS ITZAPA, famed as a base for the cult of San Simón, or Maximón. The so-called wicked saint’s abode is a short stroll from the central plaza, up a little hill – you should spot street vendors selling charms, incense and candles. If you get lost, ask for the Casa de San Simón. San Andrés’ Tuesday market is also worth a visit.

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