Nestled in the Macal River valley, San Antonio is the southernmost settlement outside the reserve. It’s a good place to learn about traditional Maya practices: the village was the home of famous Maya healer Don Eligio Panti, and there’s a small, informal museum in the village, dedicated to his life and work. The García sisters, Don Eligio’s nieces, run the inexpensive Chichan Ka Guest House (t 669-4023, [email protected]; US$13) on the road approaching the village; buses from San Ignacio stop outside. The sisters also serve traditional meals, offer courses in the gathering and use of medicinal plants and are also renowned for their slate carvings – their gift shop has become a favourite tour-group stop. Nearby, the Tanah Museum has exhibits on village life.

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