Two small islands along Ovalau’s south coast, Caqalai and Leleuvia, possess beach resorts and are becoming popular with backpackers keen to avoid the increasingly commercial Yasawa Islands trail. The nicest is Caqalai Island, where at low tide you can wade out to nearby Snake Island, which offers good snorkelling and the chance to spot black-and-white sea snakes. Although they are extremely venomous, the snakes are so timid and agile that you will have little chance of getting near them. Even better snorkelling is available at Honeymoon Island, a sand spit 5km to the east where you’ll likely spot small reef sharks hiding amongst the coral.

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