The sixteen islands of the Lomaiviti Group form a neat triangular cluster in the heart of the Fijian archipelago, 20km east of Viti Levu and 50km south of Vanua Levu. In the nineteenth century the island of OVALAU became the centre of European trade, with whalers and merchants setting up camp beside the village of Levuka, eventually to become Fiji’s first capital. Levuka remains the region’s main tourist draw, yet visitor numbers are blissfully insignificant. Surrounding Ovalau, a handful of small islands lie within a 15km radius, entwined within stunning coral reefs and boasting secluded white sandy beaches and hillforts: Naigani is home to a small resort and several large hillforts, while a handful of beautiful small islands with backpacker resorts lie off the south coast. Further east, the Outer Lomaiviti consist of half a dozen high volcanic islands with virtually no tourist infrastructure.